A life time decision to visit Kumbh in the month of February 2019 was definitely an unusual experience. Dates of visit were 5th of February, Mauni Amavasya one of the Shahi Snan (Royal Bath) days in the holy river of Ganga at the junction of Rivers Yamuna and Saraswati.
Charges for flights were tripled by the carriers flying to Prayagraj and the even the waitlist of 1 did not clear on the train booking. So last minute bookings by bus was done, My brother Ajay decided to join me at the last moment. As an advice please travel by business coach bus for convenience of toilets on the bus's since there are no proper stops on the way and stopping anywhere to attend to urgency might not be an option at night.
However the entry to the city was closed and all the public transport was to circumvent via city bypass and drop passengers at the makeshift terminal at Jhusi, about 45 minutes away from the city.
The toilets at the terminal were really bad with no water so we decided to proceed directly to the Kumbh Camp accommodation. The distance was covered partially by auto rikshaw and mainly by walking.
Ajay at the Kumbh entrance
Crossing the bridge, Walk to the Camp
We walked for about 2.5 hours to reach the Camp since there was no transport available on the Mela grounds during the Shahi Snan days.The roads were laid with Steel chequered plates and the dust around had been watered to reduce dust pollution but due to large influx of pedestrians.
We initially had booked a Royal tent which we shifted to Luxury tent. The Luxury tents had Tarpauline floor to avoid dust and insulate the cold coming in from the sand below- Royal tents had straw, Toilets were separate enclosure in Luxury tents with a Basin, Shower and Western WC- Royal tents had a curtained separation to wards a smaller toilet without Basin and Smaller in size. Luxury tents had 2 chairs and a Table apart from the beds while Royal tents had nothing else apart from the beds. There were charging points in both the tents.Well we reached the shelter at about 2.30 pm, tired after a long walk so we had lunch, shower (you have to request for hot water) and a tight sleep for a couple of hours. The food tent was ok with adjoining makeshift kitchen similar to everything else.
The rest of the day went in looking for the arrangement for exits towards the city and dinner.
Next day the day of Shahi snan all the public interested in the Holy Dip got up early in the morning about 3.30 am and headed towards Sangam Ghat about 1.5 hours walk due to the crowd and no transport. The ghat was crowded and we had to take dips in turns due to security of the belongings.
The NAGA's arrived at about 5.30 am in their full splendor and glory, the processions belonged to all the 13 Akharas of the Hindu sect.
It was an ethereal experience witnessing the largest conglomeration of people in the world all bound by belief, adventure and various individual reasons. Rest of the day was spend in roaming around.
Swami Avdheshanand pavillion
Nagvasuki Temple
Masses resting/Camping under the Colored piers of Ashoka bridge
Way out after the Holy Dip
Earning with musical skills
Bridge no 14 across the Ganga
Documentary on NAGA sadhus @ LCD screens in the Mela
Colored houses
Temple along the Sangam
The walk on the bathing day was another 14 km, so the evening was spend at the bonfire at the camp after Dinner. Also we were disappointed because the Temple at the origin of river Saraswati and the fort were closed for public.
A few observations with reference to the day trip are:
1. There were very few seats for the pedestrians to rest along the long walk.
2. No shops with Dust masks
3. In the evening there was too much of smog settled on the camps due to wood and coal burning by a large no of residents to cook food.
4. Electric shuttles could have worked better, or a rope way since the area of the camp was at 48 sq km.
The bonfire talk was a learning curve on the Akhara's and Shiva Bhakts, since the Amavasya is supposedly related to Aghori;s and Naga Sadhus. The journey back was better logistics but the wait at the crowded station was about a couple of hours but train itself was a relief.
Overall a hectic visit and now we know what arrangements to make and keep in mind for the next time round. Over and out, CYAO!
